Tour of the Alpes Vaudoises by trail running: Pauline’s adventure

In May, the Alpes Vaudoises are still caught between two seasons: in some resorts, winter lingers on, while in others, spring is already well established. The changeable and unpredictable weather can bring its fair share of surprises. Pauline Carminati experienced this first-hand from the very beginning of her adventure: over the Ascension weekend, she set herself the challenge of completing a tour of the region under her own steam, carrying all her belongings in her backpack. Surrounded by scenery with countless shades and ever-changing atmospheres, she tells us how her guiding principles – adaptability, variety and discovering little corners of paradise in the canton of Vaud – helped her complete SwitzerlandMobility Route No. 46 in five days of trail running.

Day one: from Leysin to Col des Mosses

In the days leading up to the adventure, the weather forecast had already made me suspect that this challenge would be even tougher than expected. Despite this, I boarded the train in Lutry, heading towards Aigle, with a healthy dose of enthusiasm and a determination to take on the challenge.

That morning, the first section of the route, between Aigle and Leysin, is completely shrouded in cloud. I therefore decide to take the TPC train up to Leysin, catching occasional bird’s-eye views of the Château d’Aigle along the way. When I arrive, I’m greeted by a wintry scene: temperatures of just a few degrees… and snow!

Next, I set off at a run towards Col des Mosses! Despite the conditions, a few rays of sunshine manage to break through the fog, bringing me a little warmth and fleeting glimpses of the Tour de Famelon and Le Moëllé. Every break in the clouds feels like a real reward as the kilometres pass beneath my feet.

After this first stage, full of emotion, it’s time to enjoy the comfort of a hot shower, a hearty meal and a good night’s sleep at the Hôtel Le Relais Alpin in Col des Mosses. Tomorrow, the adventure continues.

Day two: from Col des Mosses to Château-d’Œx

Get your hat out – it’s time to go skiing… in the mud!

On Friday morning, I wake up once again to snowfall and thick fog. After a hearty breakfast, I lace up my trail running shoes with just one goal in mind: to reach Château-d’Œx under my own steam… powered by my legs and sheer determination.

From the very first few kilometres, the magic begins. Despite the muddy ground, the landscapes are silent and mysterious, creating an almost surreal atmosphere. As I make my way through La Lécherette, I even feel as though I’ve been transported to Canada, with scenery that feels so wild and peaceful.

Along the way, a wonderful surprise awaits me: daffodils in bloom. Coming across these iconic flowers lifts my spirits and brings a touch of softness to this grey day. A little further on, around Les Trembleys, the flower-filled meadows create a spectacular scene, contrasting beautifully with the overcast sky.

When I arrive in Château-d’Œx, I treat myself to a well-deserved break and a generous slice of vegetable quiche. It’s also time to make an important decision: the following day’s stage involves crossing peaks that are still largely covered in snow, with particularly challenging conditions expected. Rather than take unnecessary risks, I decide to adapt my itinerary and travel to Les Diablerets by public transport: first by bus to Le Sépey, then by train.

After spending four months travelling on the other side of the world last year, this short interlude reminds me just how fortunate we are in Switzerland, and particularly in the Alpes Vaudoises: the density of the public transport network, even in the most remote areas, the quality of the trail signage, mobile network coverage and the wide range of accommodation options make this kind of adventure both accessible and reassuring. A real privilege that shouldn’t be taken for granted!

And so I end this second day in Les Diablerets, my heart full of gratitude and my eyes still filled with wonder at the landscapes I’ve crossed.

Day three: around Les Diablerets

From adapting to the joy of discovery

After adapting my itinerary the day before, I find myself with a whole day to spend in Les Diablerets. Rather than seeing this change as a constraint, I decide to make the most of it and travel light: no backpack, setting off directly from my room at the Auberge de la Poste to explore the surrounding area.

I head towards the Cascade du Dar. From the very first steps, the forest surrounds me with its soothing atmosphere. There’s a comforting sense of shelter here, accompanied by the sound of the Dar river, swollen by the rainfall of the previous few days. The air is fresh and invigorating, and every stride makes me want to slow down and savour the moment.

I then continue on to the iconic Lac Retaud. Here too, there is still plenty of snow, and the landscape seems frozen in time. The water is extraordinary: the deep blue of the lake reflects the green fir trees surrounding it, creating a magical setting. Alone in front of this scenery, I enjoy a true moment of peace and contemplation.

Surprising? Not really. With such unpredictable weather, the trails are almost deserted. But that’s precisely what makes this interlude so special: the feeling of freedom, the silence of the mountains and the pure air that makes you want to breathe deeply.

Back in Les Diablerets, I stop by the Guichet du Terroir, located right in the heart of the railway station. I stock up on a few drinks and regional specialities. A lovely way to end a day all about adapting to the unexpected… and making wonderful discoveries.

Day four: from Les Diablerets to Villars

A break in the weather offers me clear views of the Alpes Vaudoises and their treasures

I put my trail running backpack back on and, for the first time, I don’t need to set off wearing my rain jacket! The day is even looking almost sunny! Feeling highly motivated, I set off on this stage connecting Les Diablerets to Villars.

It isn’t long before I find myself facing the iconic rock face in the Creux-de-Champs cirque. The colours are striking: the green of the spring grass across the pastures, the grey cliffs and the white snow still clinging to the rocks higher up… Standing before this colossal mountain is a special moment – and, above all, the view is finally clear!

Next comes the climb to the famous Col de la Croix, well known among cyclists. Once again, there’s hardly anyone around: I have nature almost entirely to myself, and that suits me perfectly! I pass close to the gypsum pyramids, true natural wonders of the region, before reaching the key moment of the day: the Col d’Encrène, still covered in knee-deep snow. If my feet are going to sink into the hard snow anyway, I might as well run and laugh about it! I race down the slope to reach the shores of Lac des Chavonnes, a place I already know from taking part in the Villars Ultraks a few years ago.

The descent to Villars is peaceful, winding through forests and along snow-covered paths. The panorama of the Dents du Midi and Mont Blanc has already convinced me that this adventure is truly worth experiencing, even when the weather is cloudy.

Another rewarding day ends with a night at Hôtel VIU, a haven of peace in the heart of the mountains. Not without a slight feeling of guilt, I treat myself to some time relaxing in the spa and enjoy a good coffee on my room’s balcony. The following morning, refreshed and full of energy, I’m ready for the final stage of this tour.

Day five: from Villars to Gryon via Solalex

The break in the weather was short-lived, but the hamlets are well worth the detour

The weather starts playing up again. But no matter: my motivation is still going strong. I set off with one clear goal in mind: to finally discover the hamlet of Taveyanne, a place I’ve heard so much about but never had the opportunity to visit.

And it certainly lives up to expectations. The hamlet has a unique atmosphere. With its traditional alpine chalets and unspoilt surroundings, it’s easy to understand why it is so popular.

The trail then continues to Solalex, a little corner of paradise that seems tiny beneath the impressive rock face of the Miroir d’Argentine. I’ve already had the opportunity to complete the loop around it twice, and it’s a route I never tire of, thanks to its spectacular scenery (SwitzerlandMobility No. 121). A magnificent day hike that I highly recommend to anyone looking to explore the area!

The final kilometres then take me to Gryon, the finishing point of this trail running take on the Tour des Alpes Vaudoises. Given the weather conditions, I decide to bring the adventure to an end here, although it is entirely possible to continue on to Aigle.

The end of a wonderful adventure

I return home with valuable lessons about myself, incredible discoveries from the heart of the region and, above all, an immense sense of gratitude: for having the physical and mental strength to experience adventures like this. One thing is certain: I’m already looking forward to continuing to explore the trails of the Alpes Vaudoises, whether trail running, gravel biking or hiking.