Gravel packing: Three-day gravel bikepacking trip in the Alpes Vaudoises

This summer, we set off for three days of bike touring in the Alpes Vaudoises. The greatest adventures are often just around the corner: the Tour des Alpes Vaudoises offers a sporting challenge, breathtaking landscapes and the simplicity of a journey on two wheels.

With around 50 km per day and an elevation gain ranging from 700 to 1,600 metres, the route is demanding yet accessible. Perfect for enjoying the effort without embarking on an overwhelming expedition.

Less weight, more adventure

We set off in bikepacking mode, with our gravel bikes fitted with wide tyres and small bags. We carried only the essentials: a change of clothes, warm and waterproof gear to cope with the whims of the weather, some provisions, and basic repair tools. Each evening, a hotel stage awaited us. No complicated logistics – just pedal, enjoy the ride, then put the bike aside and savour the evening.

This pace changes everything. Far from being a race, it’s a way of taking time and living each day to the full: climbing, sometimes pushing the bike, stopping for a coffee, tasting alpine cheese, or looking up to admire the mountains.

Day 1 – From Villars to Les Diablerets

We arrived in Villars the day before thanks to the Bex–Villars–Bretaye mountain train, and spent the night at the Villars Lodge, a hotel designed with cyclists in mind. The next morning, with our panniers strapped on, we set off towards Solalex.

From the very first pedal strokes, the scenery is striking. The Miroir d’Argentine dominates the valley, massive and imposing. The road soon gives way to gravel, climbing towards Frience and Les Chaux, before reaching Taveyanne, a hamlet listed as a historic monument. Wooden chalets, flower-filled meadows, silence – our first suspended moment.

The day continues with a climb towards Ensex and Bretaye, always under the watchful eye of the Grand Muveran (3,051 m). After crossing the Meilleret ski area, we begin the descent along a small road towards Les Diablerets.

The day ends at the Hôtel du Pillon, a historic establishment with a magnificent view of the surrounding mountains. The first stage is complete!

Day 2 – From the blue of lake Retaud to the Pays-d’Enhaut

The second day begins with the climb towards Isenau before branching off to lake Retaud. Turquoise water, forests, pastures – it’s impossible not to stop. Some choose to dive in, while we opt for a break at the lakeside restaurant.

After this refreshing pause, we get back in the saddle to reach the Col du Pillon. The road descends towards Gstaad, where the chic atmosphere contrasts with the calm of the mountains. But very soon, the tour regains its wild character heading towards Rougemont, then continuing with a gentle descent along the River Sarine.

The final stretch combines roads and gravel tracks, far from traffic. We arrive in Château-d’Œx, a charming village in the Pays-d’Enhaut, renowned for its hot air balloons. We spend the night at Hôtel Roc et Neige, simple and welcoming – exactly what we needed after a day full of contrasts.

Day 3 – Col des Mosses by gravel and return to Villars

The third day promises to be more athletic. Right from leaving Château-d’Œx, the road climbs towards Les Moulins, then turns into a steep track. We occasionally have to put a foot down – walking a few metres is part of the game.

Once we reach the Col des Mosses, the descent begins, but the route takes us even further towards Leysin, alternating between roads, gravel paths, and singletracks. Short sections once again require pushing the bike, but the reward lies in the panorama to be admired.

After a quick descent to Le Sépey, we tackle the climb to La Forclaz, before turning off to drop down to Panex and then climb back to the Ecovets. This section gradually brings us back towards Villars. One final descent, and the loop is complete.

Three days out of time

In total, we covered around 150 km and 3,500 meters of elevation gain – enough to feel proud, but above all fulfilled by the diversity of landscapes: peaceful alpine pastures, high-altitude lakes, lively resorts, and bucolic valleys.

What we take away from this gravel-packing journey is the richness of the atmospheres, the variety of the terrain, the warm welcome in each village – but above all, the feeling that in just three days, we experienced a real journey, without ever leaving Switzerland.

Fancy giving it a try?

The Tour of the Alpes Vaudoises is an ideal loop for getting started with bikepacking in the mountains. Challenging without being extreme, wild without being isolated, it offers a condensed alpine adventure that can be enjoyed in just three days.